Every missing detail can always be implemented afterward. They have been removed from the templates to build faster, and are called to be added on your own once the armor part is built. You may notice that some esthetical details are often missing, details like grids, holes, screws, notches, indentations. This thread aims to gather the models I've unfolded with both 'foam' and 'speed-build' in mind, as well as the tips that come along with the files. About flexibility, here's a quick illustration of what you'll often have to do with your foam (yea I know, it's paper on the photos, but it's only an illustration) : It has occurred that these templates work fairly well with corrugated cardboard, and also, through proper tweaking, for aluminium panels.īut if you plan to use some sheets of foam of one square foot, or one inch thick, or almost unbendable, you won't be able to use these templates. The way I unfold allows each curve and bulge-shaped effect to be obtained without the need of a heat gun. I would recommend somewhere between 5 and 10mm. This point depends mainly of the thickness of this foam. And at last, the more your foam is flexible, the more easy will be your build. Then, you may use some cheap foam, because these templates generate a impressive amount of waste. By suitable I mean that the templates below can only be used under certain restriction of material :Īt first you must use some foam mats, or foam roll, or whatever else, much larger than a common paper sheet. And it begins with releasing some suitable *.pdo files.īy suitable I don't mean at all that the other guys who unfold for foam should better drop their work right through the gogs. After a basic but effective five-days-built Iron Man Mark IV, I wanted to improve and share my speed-building technics to allow everyone having kids and a full-time job to be still able to build a full foam suit in far less than a month.

Iron man mark 17 helmet pepakura files